THE COAST OF VINLAND
And locations of Leifsbudir, Hop, Straumney, and Crossannes
Readings of the Sagas allow us to identify no fewer than 22 landfalls and landings upon the coast of Vinland. By accepting possible basic truth of the Sagas and the remark by Thorvald of real or imagined proximity of Crossannes and Leifsbudir we can formulate a working hypothesis of what Vinland must have been like. For all landfalls to the south of Crossannes must have been upon that one landmass. We can again look at the humanity of the tales where Thorvald’s motives were explicitly stated as exploring Vinland. Coupled with the knowledge that Leif did not neglect this – he specified where and how it was to be done – then Thorvald was intent upon seaward explorations, the environment of Leifsbudir known. Hence the trip westward in the afterboat.
A list for those landsmen who may not have seen the significance of what was said;
Leif lists six landfalls: Wunderstrands, stretch of broken coastline, island of sweet tasting water, land to south of it, a fjord, and Leifsbudir. He remarks rather specifically a northpointing cape as a bearing point that had been passed.
Despite the confused issue of Thorvald’s Saga he manages to list nine in addition; an island west of Leifsbudir, described rocky and wooded coastline to it, strand of slaying of five, Dungeness, bird nest island (might be from another saga but listed here), Keelness, Cape (without specifying size or orientation), Crossannes, and the river oriented E/W. Since this river can not be demonstrated as being upon Vinland, we will drop it from considerations. (But if the orientation is correct, it supports a trip from New England as it must have been upon one of the west coasts of Nova Scotia or Newfoundland.)
Thorfinn adds six: Wunderstrands, major Cape, Keelness, Straumney, Straumfjord, Hop.
Freydis seems to have made no direct remark of landfalls.
This represents twenty-one landfalls but some may have been the same observed by others:
Wunderstrands we can assume to have been the one and only repeated so we will reduce two later references to 19 landfalls.
The northpointing cape seems explicit in Leif’s saga but less so in the others; for the moment we cannot remove the possibility of more than one cape but indicators seem to show that the less definite descriptions necessitate the cape as pointing north. In later recordings and medieval maps of Vinland, there is identified a large cape and named "Vinlandia Promuntorum".
The question of two references to a fjord begs the question that this also might be the same fjord. It doesn’t seem likely, if we read the episodes on Straumney correctly. Karlseffni was intent upon locating Leifsbudir, which already had at least one large structure in place. He had negotiated for it as well. If the fjord that contained Leifsbudir were so close to Straumney, it would seem likely that they would remove there promptly rather than stay on the island. Some saga descriptions say that it was "—a long way (or time)" from Straumney to Hop. On the other hand, the removal back to the island after the battle or the isolated reference that Karlseffni and 40 men went in advance tends to the idea that it could not have been all that far off.
We are left with nineteen landfalls to account for and these must be found in the vicinity of some area noted for extensive white sane beaches and an island of a certain size and a certain description. The size limits consideration, as there are not really all that many existing along the Atlantic coastline. The coastline must have been oriented E/W since it is described so and Thorvald’s expedition west supports it. It must have had a southerly exposure as Leif’s stipulated course to Leifsbudir was to the north, which had a fjord.
It was low and wooded in some sections but also broken and rocky (but still wooded) in others. Descriptions of the coastline and specifically Leifsbudir hold that the forests came to right near the shoreline.
Three islands which are of a size are Prince Edward Island, Mount Desert Island, Nantucket and Marthas Vinyard. (Block Island will not do – it is only a one-day expedition by personal trial of the author.) Prince Edward and Mount Desert Islands do not have correct bearing so we might try to decide between the two latter. Marthas Vinyard, for many reasons is an ideal candidate for Straumney; those reasons existing both in the sagas and in colonial and modern discoveries and analysis’. It fits perfectly in all respects – even to the strong currents that are strong indeed enough to stop and even reverse a sailing vessel.
Therefore, as a pretty well supported theory, we can accept Marthas Vineyard as a base point to analyze other landings, the main, as you recall, was Hop, but perhaps that and Leifsbudir and Crossannes might also be discovered.
(Scholars are referred here to the early and comprehensive work of (Dane) Charles C. Rafn (1837) who does the same analysis.
Unless Karlseffni had inadvertently passed Leifsbudir, for which he was looking hard, both Hop and Leifsbudir must be somewhere west of Marthas Vinyard. And if they Hop could not and Leifsbudir might not be beyond the Hudson River, then perhaps they were not so far apart as it would seem. (Rafn also drew the same conclusion, placing them adjacent and within sight in the same fjord.)
At this point we approach a theoretical resolution of a puzzle of the sagas. Leifsbudir was in or near a fjord that had an island to its south or southwest. While Hop did not have such bearings to follow, the eventual discovery of the N/S river that we claim is proven as Hop, the site happens to fit in all respects all descriptions of both Hop and Leifsbudir! Therefore we can conclude by something more than theory that in truth Leifsbudir and Hop are one and the same place; only the residence of Leif and Thorfinn being apart by only a little distance.
It would not appear that any other Vinland scholar has come to this same conclusion but it is a long way from being unreasonable or outlandish. First:
Leif never named his homesite. We call it Leifsbudir, but he didn’t. There is no good reason why Karlseffni, following could not refer to it in any manner he pleased. In fact it is not certain that Hop was an official name. It is a descriptive of certain conditions that are translated as, "a lake into which salt water flows at high tide"
Karlseffni and Gudrid negotiated with Leif for residence at Leifsbudir. They set off in search of it. Their landfall at Keel ness demonstrates that they were at least upon the coast of Vinland; conditions at Straumney add to the supposition. The argument with Thorhall the Hunter confirms that they were still in search of it and that it was unlikely that Leifsbudir could have been north of the cape, since it would have been missed twice in that case where it had been easily found before and after.
But the most insightful matter that aids the case is the activities and behavior of Freydis, Leif’s half sister.
She is identified clearly as being a member of two expeditions to Vinland; once with the party of Karlseffni and later with her own expedition. She was resident at both Hop and Leirfsbudir – this much is explicit in the sagas. She was able on her own trip to go direct, with two ships not sailing in company, to Leifsbudir. If she had never been there before, how could this be possible, if the previous expedition had been lost?
Those interested in further examinations of southern New England might obtain several nautical charts from the US Department of Commerce; "Nantucket Sound and Approaches", and "Marthas Vinyard to Block Island". The only thing lacking is exploring for Thorvald’s island to west. A chart showing Plymouth Harbor, north of Cape Cod, would be helpful, for that shallow harbor is certainly the Crossannes of the sagas. For a seaman to travel east and around the cape, then west to Plymouth and not suppose he were returned near his origin would be strange indeed. Rafn is in agreement here.
Another most interesting reference is an ancient map drawn by one Cyprian Southack, published as a navigational chart in 1717. Available from US Library of Congress. It shows clearly the rapid and extreme changes that have taken place since that date. This coastline is in a state of subsidence, having dropped (an apparent sea level rise) some 18 inches in a thousand years. Only 150 miles north in Maine the land has risen some few meters in the same era, as it has in Norway. This curious anomaly is responsible for a major breakthrough in research of the site under study.
The site resolves the question. To the west of Marthas Vinyard/Straumney lies the smaller island of Block and to its north/north east lies the fjord we call Narragansett Bay. Other scholars, inclusive of C.C Rafn and even Dr. Helge Ingstad have looked this bay well over for presence of a river that might fit the descriptions. Rafn theorized certain conditions on the East Side of the bay/fjord and, as we know, Dr. Ingstad says he could not find the river and so directed his attention northward to his great discovery in Newfoundland.
But it was my good fortune to have found a sterling candidateriver. It is difficult by its unusual location and it is no fault that it has been undiscovered to now, for it does not lie within Narragansett Bay/Fjord where many have looked, but along the approaches on the West Side.
Small, almost insignificant, the landing by sea is actually the first practical one along a course entering, or intending to enter, the great waterway to the north. It is ideal for landing by a ship which has auxiliary power (oars) and a large crew. It matches perfectly those conditions described by both Leif Ericson and Thorfinn Karlseffni that Leif’s landing was a grounding in an attractive place and that Karlseffni’s Hop river could not be entered except at high tide.
It is the Narrow River/Pettaquamscutt River which lies at 41deg 25min N and 71deg26min W, some 2,100 miles from Greenland and the same latitude as Oporto, Portugal; Rome, Italy, and Constantinople/Istanbul, Turkey. It also immediately resolves that puzzling observation that the river of Hop "--flowed down the land into a lake, and then into the sea." The complex does just that, with two distinct rivers with different names. These are Pettaquamscutt river and Narrow river, the first being some 7 miles N/S and the later being less than a mile or ten minute row by small boat oriented NW/SE.
Topographical map for it is available from the US Geological Survey "Narragansett Pier, RI, N4122.5-W7122.5/7.5."
It is accessible and pleasant. Fishing is popular. The catch is likely to be salmon or even small halibut, just as in the Vinland Sagas. Visitors should be advised that some foot traffic is permissible at the lower levers near the river. These areas are preserved for wildlife and owned by varied wildlife organizations. All the upper levels away from the rivers are private property and owners are sensitive to intrusions on their property. If you go, please respect the subject of this study and the rights of property owners. Do no harm. Leave nothing but your footprints, take nothing but your time.
One might be curious as to whether any artifacts or other indicators might have been found by this historian or others in the past. Yes, three have been. The site happens to be historical by reason of certain colonial events there. A battle took place and the spot where this occurred is owned by the Rhode Island Historical Preservation Society. It is on an elevation overlooking the lake and is inaccessible to the public. However, it was archeologically surveyed in 1917 and in the process two structures older than 1663 were discovered, but never further investigated. (The survey was interrupted by WWI). Aerial photographs (satellite) in my possession have been analyzed at the University of Texas with discovery of at least one "ghost field" which seems to hold traces of three structures of some kind. On site there is no trace whatsoever above ground as to what was there. Underground, there may be, but I am in no position to investigate the area. Five mysterious structures.
Layout of the settlement is easy – this is the way it has developed to today. Coincidental placement of the settlement seems apparent.
The cliffs to the north are Pettaquamscutt Rock – a most impressive outcropping at just about a perfect mile distance from the settlement above the lake. It has to be seen to compare it with an attempted retreat for it. It seems ideal to me; 60 feet on West Side, 15 on east shear all around and easily defended, its flat top is about one hundred fifty feet square.
In 1889 a mysterious artifact was accidentally discovered some 5 miles away and near the salt-water bay. It was turned over to a local educator who soon became convinced that it was a Viking battle-ax. He was ridiculed and harassed but eventually wrote a book on it but which was unfortunately lost before it could be published. Both book and ax seem to be lost. The educator, one James Earl Clausen, was a high school teacher who speculated that the river had been the Hop of the sagas, but his ideas were of the east bank while sagas and other evidence hold it on the West Side. The ax weighed ten pounds and was eleven inches along the sharp edge and the same from edge to haft hole.
For additional interesting information concerning this coastline, see: http://home.att.net/~kmjviking/page6.html